While there is a town called Shangri- La in China's south west province Yunnan, Helen, our local contact was quick to point that 'real' Shangri- La lies far from its namesake town and much closer to a town called Lijiang in northeast of Yunnan.
A sublime isolation of beauty, colour and rhythm of nature at its best with an almost 800 year old culture now near extinction, the ancient Lijiang county was officially declared a world cultural legacy by the UNESCO in 1997.
Surrounded by mountains and endless green fields, a mile high above sea level, the peace and tranquilty of the countryside is overwhelmingly 'Shangri- La'.
Helen was adamant at proving her point. So our first trip was a three hours drive from Lijiang to Liming district, known for its spectacular red sandstone cliffs. A journey that took us through the first bend of the mighty Yangtze river. There is something quite spiritual about the Yangtze (its like the Ganga for the locals) and you can feel it touch your soul if you just stop and listen. This is where the river curves and heads back north, a rarity, Helen adds excitedly.
Not too far from here is the gorgeous Thousand Turtle mountain (Qiangui Shan). But when you trek up to its peak, lie on the turtle back rocks and take a deep breath - you can literally taste peace. A happy Helen shouts Shangri-La!
But while this mountain is perfect for losing yourself in meditation and soul searching, It has a 'wild' companion just 20 km from Lijiang. The mighty Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong mountain). This southernmost glacier in the Northern Hemisphere is called the 'Natural Glacier Museum' and is a sanctuary for rare animals and wild plants. Just take the cable car ride up the over 4500m, skii the slopes of this magnificient mountain with 13 peaks and enjoy its cascading pools, let the locals fill you in on its various legends.
There's a lot you can do on ground level too. Enjoy the streets of Lijiang's ancient town and the absolutely celestial view of the Black Dragon pool. My Chinese friend Rui Lui spent a good twenty minutes waiting for the clouds to move so that he could spot a glimpse of the Jade Dragon Snow mountain peak from behind the white clouds. It was worth the wait.
Lijiang ancient town is full of small streams meandering into the city with rows and rows of colourful shops and eateries abuzz with laughter and frolic. An ancient port in the Southern Silk Road between Yunnan and Tibet from 1250s, Lijiang's markets have been a kaliedoscope of cultures influenced by Buddhism, Taoism, Christianity and Islam. All assimiliated and preserved beautifully by the local Naxi community and visible through their traditions.
With a population less than 300,000, the Naxis mainly live in what is called Lijiang Naxi Autonomous County, a mountainous terrian that has still kept agriculture and cattle rearing their main occupation. Some of them own shops selling traditional crafts, silver jewellery, fabrics and tea. Yunnan Tuocha Tea is highly reputed for slimming, beauty and health. A word of advice when you shop - bargain!
One thing a must on your shopping list would be anything that has the Naxi script 'Dongba' - only found here and on the verge of extinction, so rare a collectible. Created over 1000 years ago, it uses pictographic characters - so it also looks pretty.
Many fear that after the few surviving Dongbas (wise men who know the script) this would be lost forever. But you can go to the local Naxi museum and while you enjoy Naxi history, make sure you get a Dongba to write you a beautiful message on a parchment in the 'Dongba' script.
This Dongba drew me a mountain and a meangering river which meant 'May you live long like the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and live your life to the fullest like the mighty Yangtze river' (both sacred to Naxi people). Symbols of health, wealth, happiness and peace.
Also along the streets are giant 'fortune' wheels that bring you luck and joy. So when you see one, dont forget to make a wish. Helen, a proud Naxi herself introduced us to the mesmerizing Naxi music that can be heard while you stroll the streets of Lijiang. A confluence of musical styles from the Tang (618-907) and Song dynasties (960-1279), as well as some Tibetan influences, making it a 'living fossil of music'.
Any journey to Lijiang is incomplete if you dont pay homage to Joseph Rock, an Austrian-born American botanist, photojournalist and explorer who lived between 1922 and 1949. He wrote for the National Geographic and studied the Naxi culture to soon become the father of Naxilogy.
You can visit Rock's home in the neighbouring Yuhu village guarded by an old woman who would watch you like a hawk while you explore Rock's chambers and study ensuring that the cameras dont click. Or simply visit the Nature Conservancy office which displays some of the photographs he took during his expeditions in Yunnan. I suggest do the latter first. It will give you an idea of the magnanimity of his work. After all, it was his writings that went on to inspire Hilton’s novel which gave us the mythical Shangri La.
On your last night, just follow the sound of festivities - they are loudest on the street lined with clubs and pubs, playing loud music with patrons singing even loudly and drinks flowing like water. Make sure you pick the loudest diner on the block. And heres a little trick, if you sing and dance to the Chinese numbers (act like you love it), they will play you an English chartbuster of the 90s.
Wine lovers should never leave without sampling the delicious Yunan red wine and if you are adventurous try the local alcoholic concoctions. Just dont ask whats in them, gulp one shot after another. You won't know what hit you.
But when you take the flight back home the next day, you know you touched heaven and also met the devil.
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